The built-in seal on the mason jars would definitely be a good way to keep the finish out. But over time, as you suspect, dried finish could become a problem on the lid. It looks like Howard has a great suggestion for simulating that seal with any jar, and its even more cost effective. Unfortunately my friend, your Urethane is half way into the trash. A skin and chunks are signs that the finish has already started curing in the can. Varnishes cure via oxidation, which means air is your worst enemy.
Varathane wood stain features high-quality and advanced pigments that bring out natural, rich color. You can apply a single coat for a lighter shade or build it up with more coats. The product has a semi-transparent and low VOC formula that can work with a lint-free cloth. The Minwax natural stain is available in thirty-six amazing colors that can be used on floors, molding, trim, doors, cabinets, and other wood furniture. Although the stain can only take two hours to dry, it might take a day to set correctly.
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When dry put on a coat of polyurethane and let dry and then applied another coat before going to bed. It looked great and then great big areas of whitish creamy spots appeared in spots over the table so I cover it with a table cloth. Where there are no white spots the finish is great. I am thinking of sanding it so it is rough, putting on a paint primer and painting it.
Very useful to see how various woods behave and really helps in choosing what kind of wood to use! I would have really liked to see a gray stain used as well. My project is to build a side table and coffee table using 1/2″ black iron pipe and then picking an edge glued wood for the top of it. The effect can change not only from stain to stain, but from wood species to wood species and even from one board to another within the same wood species. Best option is to cut small pieces of what you’re going to be using and do some at-home tests to see the impact. Everything I’ve used makes my red oak look pink!
Varathane and Minwax offer some of the best wood preparations and stains available. They both produce a broad enough variety that you can find anything that you may want whether it be water or oil-based. Staining wood is a way of adding character the room it is in and makes all the difference in the quality of your furniture or floors.
However, it adds just the right amount of interest, highlights, and contrast to the wood. It also doesn’t make a huge impact on certain types of wood, like whitewood and pine. It almost hides the grain of a lot of the types of wood. Click here to read our full review of Early American wood stain. I think Jacobean for the darker stain and special walnut for the lighter ceiling would look great. This was my first time using Varathane’s Kona stain and I really like the color!
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I then stained the rougher side with minwax penetrating stain , it is oil based. It has been 5 full days and it is still tacky but getting better. My biggest issue is that there is a shimmery look to all of the boards.
After sanding it, you can use a product like Minwax’s Sanding Sealer in order to get the wood in proper shape to take a stain. Choosing a stain finish can be tricky, especially consider the amount of options there are. Varathane and Minwax each are known for their variety in colors available.
It looks pretty pink even right after staining, so I don’t think the white stain is on Red Oak is what you want. Think of all trim and stair parts as furniture. 90% of my customers choose a slightly different color on other materials that isn’t flooring.
I only have 50 BF of that left and once it’s gone i’m not going to buy more. You are only supposed to put on one coat of stain, not 2, and certainly not 3. When you have more than 1 coat, the poly won’t adhere as well.
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It is not ideal for floors, but the Design Series Color Wash is ideal for smaller wooden surfaces. Their Ultimate Polyurethane Oil Based finish provides clarity over the wood and goes on in two easy coats. That specific finish is perfect for adding a nice, warm sheen to your wood. As with all of their finishes, the Ultimate Polyurethane Oil-Based finish lasts a long time and offers damage protection. Choosing between wood finishing products is not as easy as it seems.
This is because unlike traditional stain, gel stains don’t penetrate the surface. When using stain on wood, it’s just as magical as it is tricky. You varathane vs minwax stain see, you may fall in love with the stain color shown on the can, but it may end up looking completely different once you apply it on a piece of wood.
When shopping, it’s a good idea to pay a lot of attention to the reputation of the products you are looking at. Higher quality products will usually provide a richer, more even finish than cheaper ones will. For these reasons, we would recommend Varathane, despite the added cost, as this brand will best allow you to get your wood projects done much faster. However, at the end of the day, the decision is up to you. Minwax products certainly have their place; for example, for someone who is just getting started or someone who prefers a thinner coat. You may have seen these terms used interchangeably, but Varathane is a brand name, whereas polyurethane refers to a kind of resin used to make wood finishing.
Bona Stains – Bona offers a good line of quality stains. We use Bona White when we mix for gray hardwood floors. We would use Minwax when we are matching an existing floor and the customer had used Minwax on their existing floors.
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One application, a minute or two of soaking, and a wipe-off was sufficient with the Varathane stain I used. Tung oil would be applied after staining without any sanding or steel wooling first. Thank goodness for this site — last night I was in a full-on panic. I’d put stain on our wood floors to darken some scratches and then wiped it off as the hardware store person told me to do.
Some are bold and obvious, while others are so subtle as to seem almost hidden, yet all woodworkers agree the grain of the wood is what makes it beautiful. Enhancing that grain and making it stand out can add a lot to any woodworking project. I spray Minwax mineral spirits based polyurethane exclusively. I thin it 10%; and it atomizes well in a HVLP gun, self levels, and rubs smooth. I tried Varathane poly and just could not get it to work for me. As I recall, it seemed gummy, but it’s been a while.
Once I like something I tend to stick with it – Minwaxis what I used most often for oil based stain. On porous woods like red oak, pigment stains really build up in the pores, making them contrast with the surrounding wood, while dyes seems to color more evenly. Almost all commercially available furniture with a dark rich finish is sprayed. A lot of those colors are achieved with a mixture of dye & stain in the same product.
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Varathane provides more shine and prevents “yellowing.” However, it may peel off easily too. Both of them provided a good finish and are widely used. Varathane (Oil-based) requires the application of only a single coating as it is thicker and has a better quality. Use some medium sandpaper (#120 grit paper) and sand the wood if you are going to use a water-based stain. If you are planning to use an oil-based stain, use a slightly heftier grit paper as high as #180. Without using a finish, the wood can easily warp from humidity creating an eye sore and a structural error.
- On top of that, it is just too cold outside to dry, and the only other place to keep it safely is our basement, which may be too cool and humid.
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- The only loser in this group was the red oak sample, which turned out really blotchy and somehow lost most of its stain when top coat was applied.
- And, while I don’t recommend it, if you need to do a 2nd coat of stain because it’s not white enough, expect to pay extra for that.
- My favorite dark wood stain is Early American.
- Now that I got that out of my head,back to the discussion.
- Duraseal is a better brand than minwax and it will dry much faster.
- I love how classic / timeless it looks but…that white oak with Simply White stain definitely gives me the heart eyes.
- Sometimes mixing stain colors can help, but I don’t know what the right formula would be off the top of my head.
- It’s worth the effort, though, as the Danish Oil Wood Finish imparts a gorgeous, hand-rubbed look.
I’m afraid of having the oil based turn simply white on white oak any bit of amber or golden. My wood boards and rods for shelving have dried to touch but still give off a horrible smell. We sanded them all, applied a pre-stain conditioner, and then applied one coat of Minwax Polyshades Stain and Polyurethane in One. It has a great color and seems dry to touch, but smells. We think we may have wiped off the stain component in the Polyshades with our paper towels. On top of that, it is just too cold outside to dry, and the only other place to keep it safely is our basement, which may be too cool and humid.
For these doors, I was really pleased with just one coat! However, if I were to want a darker opaque finish, I could have applied another one or two thin coats. The more coats, the darker and more opaque your finish will be.
How much durability and resilience do you need? Exterior woods require more durable and resilient finishes, like the ones lacquer, paint, varnish, and polyurethane provide. Oils and stains, on the other hand, are appropriate for interior woods that need less protection.
You may experience streaks and runs on your project if you don’t wipe away the excess of your product. Minwax gel stains are suitable for a variety of materials. You can apply this product to wood, fiberglass, metals, and more. It is heavy-bodied and can be applied with a standard brush, roller, or cloth. The water-based wood stain and semi-transparent color stain by Minwax will glorify your unfinished wood surface.
At lower temps, it can become thick and unworkable, and at higher temps, especially in high humidity, the stain tends to “sweat” and leave blotches on the surface. Oil-based stain can be applied by spraying or brushing, and cleaning the tools afterward requires the use of a solvent, such as turpentine or mineral spirits. I was actually very excited to sample stains on oak. It is not a wood that we ever work with – mainly because it is the most expensive type of wood sold at our local hardware store. Pine is a favorite wood of many beginning woodworkers because it is cheap and plentiful. It’s a soft wood, and sometimes it can be hard to stain without it getting splotchy.
My dad made rocking chairs and other furniture to sell all over the mid west. I alway enjoy the next challenge to build to keep sharpening my working skills. Polycrylic is actually opaque and not transparent.
Used american walnut on interior doors because it has extra pigment giving it a deeper intensity, was torn between using this and the dark walnut. It turned out lighter and a bit redder than I expected. I LOVE the Rich Mahogany wiping stain from BM. Contrary to one of the posters above, I’ve had good success using colored finishes when I’ve really needed to change the color of the wood for one reason or another. Mostly shellac with dye added, but have also used the colored polyurethanes as a base coat, top finished with clear. I’ve found them easier to control and less subject to blotching than oil stains.